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Varanese: Watching Them Come Up

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Stephen D

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Varanese: Watching Them Come Up

by Stephen D » Sun Sep 04, 2011 7:54 am

So I stopped into Varanese last night for yet another fantastic meal. All the hallmarks were hit:

The specials were, well, special, Heirloom Tomato Salad and Braised Short Ribs rocked.

Chef stopped by, as he does with each table, to add that certain personal touch he's known for.

Rory produced a Bulleit Rye Manhattan that should be considered the gold standard.

The wines, tasty- a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with the salad. An accesible Rioja with the ribs.

Ah, but what I am musing on, what makes me smile, is watching the next generation come up and find thier way down the culinary journey.

His name is Tom. I remember when he was hired, like three or four years ago. A Sullivan student brought on for garde manger. Over time he worked various stations until finally landing as server. He always did just fine, but you never really got the feeling he found his niche.

Well, I'll be damned. He found his niche! This chap was absolutely glowing in this position. It's hard to put to words, but let's just say when it's right, you'll know it. Sure, he's young with his whole career ahead of him and much to learn- but enthusiasm learns. Daily.

Trust me, one of the most difficult things one can do in this industry is master both FOH and BOH. Most restauranteurs won't even let a cook on the floor, and vice-versa. Thier skill-sets are night and day- complete opposites. Props to John for his forward-thinking and willingness to let Tom run FOH. A very good decision!

Now watch, Tom will spend more time coming up to mastery level in both areas and indeed, if he steps behind the bar, this will take longer...

But when he coalesces- he's gonna know the whole dang operation, inside-and-out. The pure restaranteur. Able to train staff in all three areas of operation. Able to jump on grill, patch drywall, make a perfect Manhattan and handle guests with the utmost aplomb.

:lol:
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Bill Veneman

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Re: Varanese: Watching Them Come Up

by Bill Veneman » Sun Sep 04, 2011 3:50 pm

Varanese has always had a wonderfully warm spot in my heart as it is where I met the Bayen's when John was doing his opening seatings, and also, it was the first place that I ventured out for dinner after I was so ill that I was hospitalized two years ago.....And saw Stephen D. there that evening as well when we arrived for dinner.

John does a tremendous job there, and I am alway in awe of his menu, both standard and specials. And it's alway fun to go on those incredably coolish evening for dinner and sit on the "terrace" and enjoy the views of traffic and people.

I'm very looking forward to my next visit once things settle down here a bit...... :mrgreen:
If life's a Banquet, what's with all the Tofu?

Cheers!

Bill V.

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