I assume Midway is close enough to Louisville to get away with posting this here vs. in the travel section - if not, Robin, scoot it over.
Met friends from Lexington/Chicago in Midway last night for dinner. Friend had found Heirloom online (the dreaded Mariani review), and it was quite a surprise. What an excellent, intimate place this turned out to be.
Chef Mark Wombles appeared to be about 19 years old (I'm sure he's at least 30 based on his bio!). He has a history at Aqua, but more recently at Jonathan's in Lexington. I thought his style was consistent with Jonathan's (which I hold in high regard), but perhaps a bit edgier and thoughtful.
Wombles appears to be very interested in contrasting flavors and texture. Many of the entrees feature "salads," which turn out to be interesting little toppers for the entrees with interesting combinations of flavors. I'll speak only to mine, which was freshly sliced peaches with a citrus vinagrette and jicama served over the evening's special of chicken prepared a couple of different methods. It was a perfect seasonal preparation. All three of the others at my table ordered the pan seared halibut which was favorably received (especially the goat cheese grits that accompanied).
Backtracking to the "enticements," otherwise known at most shops as appetizers, his creativity was rampant. There were two big winners at our table: the tempura of halibut in a creamy yuzu sauce with scallions and watermelon radish (quoted from the online menu - I would never remember all of that) and an oyster BLT special. Six nice-sized oysters were served with a bit of tomato, mozz and smoky thick bacon and an aioli that was mild but flavorful. Chef credited his sous chef for this idea, but it was one of the most interesting oyster presentations I've seen, and was a perfect fresh way to start the evening.
I'm not a sugar person, but the short desert menu seemed pleasing to my table. I thought the most interesting offering (which no one at my table tried, unfortunately) was a sweet corn ice cream. It sounds like they typically make one or two ice creams daily - the other last night was chocolate, which our server described as being nothing unusual (my words) but quite wonderful.
Presentations were beautiful, and the space is very comfortable (if not a bit loud, especially with a 14-top full with a group sitting next to us). Prices are toward the upper end. I should mention that the menu is limited, but I didn't see that as a serious limitation. Service was just excellent - our server was knowledgeable and friendly, if not just enthusiastic.
In short, this is a keeper. From my Shelby County home, Midway is a short 35 minutes. Even from the depths of Louisville it's worth the hour to make the trek, especially during daylight hours through horse country.