Have it our way or else, say NY chefs.

Here's a link to a recent post on Robin's wine/food forum which I thought might gain some traction over here.
http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/vil ... =5&t=37907
Discuss

This was on a menu at a restaurant in Boulder City, NV that I just ate at. I have no problem with restaurants doing this. If you don't like the dish the way they make it, don't order it. If you don't like the way they run their business, go elsewhere.


SUBSTITUTIONS/INSTEAD OFS
Thinking about asking
for a substitution ...................................... FREE
Asking for a substitution ........................... $1.00
Asking for a substitution in the
no substitution area .................................. $20.00
Asking if these are real charges ................ $40.00

http://www.worldfamouscoffeecup.com/menu_web.pdf

There has to be a reasonable line in regards to substitutions.

I'm never going to ask for a substitution on an ingredient that is either hard to remove or essential to the chef's vision for that dish. That's a big thing with me. I don't think customers should come in and "re-make" dishes. But, I don't have a problem with asking for a substitution on a side item.

Within reason, restaurants will also take into consideration dietary requests. The "within reason" is important. Once again, I don't think the request should change the essence of the dish.

I'm also far more inclined to say "can you leave off X" then to ask for a substitution. Often, if I ask for, say, the fries to be left off, the waiter offers some other options.

As a practice, I don't ask to make a substitution unless I 1) know the chef personally and know that he knows that I'm ordering; or 2) they have made a practice of "we'll sub anything you would like of like value" policy. Now that's not to say that I won't ask. The worst that I can get is a "no, sorry sir, we cannot accomodate your request"....and I will smile and take note for future refernece.

Ultimately it's a balance between pleasing your customers and the hassle factor of substitutions. Can't recall the last time I asked for a substitution.

I think it's a question of degree. But "no salt and pepper on the table" is a pet peeve of mine. Sure, maybe one guy in the kitchen seasons everything perfectly every time (but I doubt even this), however, he is not there every shift; can't be. Also, some people like more or less salt or black pepper than other people. (Under-salted frites are one of the most disappointing things one can eat.)

On the other hand - being a cook, I prefer Kosher salt and can no longer abide the iodine-y taste of regular table salt. So I lose all over the board on that count. Luckily, in restaurants where I'm a regular and/or know the chef or the cooks, I can unashamedly ask for a small ramekin of kosher salt.

Same deal with pepper. Standard table pepper is this dusty, grey stuff I don't want on my food, either. Fresh-ground or coarse-grind for me. Every dining room should have at least one pepper grinder.

My two cents. HOWEVER:

All that being said, one of my very favorites restaurant in the city (as everyone knows by now) is Seviche, and not only are there no salt and pepper shakers on the tables - I've never even thought of asking for salt and pepper, because Chef Lamas a) knows how to season exquisitely and b) has trained his staff to mimic his seasoning perfectly and consistently. (they do, however, have shakers available if a guest asks.)

So it can be done. It just isn't done properly very often. Kudos, Anthony and staff.

I live by the "trust your chef" rule. If a dish has things I do not like, I do not order it, or I order it, open my mind and palette and see if this iteration of the things I do not like will change my mind about them (it has happened in the past). But, otherwise, I trust the chef to know what he/she is doing and I order accordingly.

I think the NY example is a bit extreme, but I can appreciate the sentiment.