Discussion of Robin Garr's Funmi's Cafe review

[Robin Garr]

Funmi’s shows off the flavors of Nigeria
LEO's Eats with Robin Garr



Think of Nigeria, and you’re likely to visualize a state on the edge of failure, part of the harsh legacy of colonialism. Though it is a modern country, its boundaries were drawn by Westerners who carved up the world for commercial exploitation, dividing traditional tribal regions without thought or concern.

It is a state endowed with oil, offering potential riches and massive corruption to a few and poverty and disease for the rest — not a pretty sight, although to Nigeria’s credit, it has opened the 21st century under its first lasting civilian government, and with a sense of optimism for the future.

But that’s not the real Nigeria. To visualize the country’s richer heritage, one must look to the Yoruba, the dominant people of its West African region. For several centuries beginning in the 1100s, when Europe was in the Dark Ages, fighting plagues, wars and ignorance, the Yoruba enjoyed a golden age of political domination, rich culture and art, creating works still sought after by museums.

The Yoruba also evolved an impressive cuisine — colorful, spicy and flavorful, taking advantage of the lush tropical region’s bounty of meat, seafood, vegetables and fruit. Adding tomatoes, rice and other ingredients brought by traders and, later, conquerors, Nigerian food brings the colors and flavors of West Africa to your dinner plate.

And now you can enjoy it in Louisville with the recent arrival of Funmi’s Café in the Highlands. Funmi’s (it’s pronounced “Foon-mee’s”) takes its name from the owner and cook, a friendly Nigerian woman who’s proud of her Yoruba heritage. She told us she has lived in Louisville for seven years but only recently became “bold enough” to open the restaurant she had always wanted to have.

My only question is, why did she wait so long?

Read the full review on LouisvilleHotBytes,
http://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/funmi ... of-nigeria
and in LEO Weekly:
http://leoweekly.com/dining/funmi%E2%80 ... rs-nigeria

Funmi’s Café
1043 Bardstown Road
454-5009
http://www.funmiscafe.com
Robin Garr’s rating: 86 points

I had lunch with my son at Funmi's yesterday. We arrived at about 12:30. After looking at the menu for a while, my son ordered the Fried Rice with Chicken and I ordered the Iyan with Egusi soup and tofu as the protein. Since I'm working fish back into my diet I think I'll try the fish protein next time.

She warned us that my dish would take a while so we got a side of Dodo with ketchup as an appetizer. Funmi was waiting the tables and cooking the food at first, but then another man showed up after about 20 minutes or so. Even though she warned us it would take a while, I think she made us some fried donut things and brought those out while we waited as well.

Everything was worth the wait. My dish was nice and spicy for an icy winter day. I loved having the bland yam flour mold (which sounds funny, but that's what it is) to cut the spice a bit. They looked just like mashed potatoes, but were a bit more solid than mashed potatoes tend to be. My dish could've used a touch of salt, I think, but there weren't any shakers visible and I didn't want to ask. I kind of wondered if it was the tofu - probably a more traditional protein wouldn't have needed it. My son's dish looked really good and it must've been because he ate every bite. I don't think there was even a grain of rice left on his plate, although I had to take some of mine home for lunch today.

With two vitamin waters, our bill came to something like $34. I left a $7 tip. It was a great lunch and I thought Funmi was very nice. She was genuinely thankful that we liked the food, you know?

My only concern is how long it took. We didn't mind, but we were there from 12:20 until after 2. There was only one other table (of 4) in the restaurant until we were about to leave and then another table of 2 came in. I enjoyed the time talking to my son, but I just wonder how much lunch business she'll attract during the week. And there were a lot more tables that could be filled. So anywho. That's my humble opinion.

Got carry out from Funmi's tonight after quite a long while of it not popping to the top of the list when we're ordering carry out at work. The food was outstanding. I got stewed goat in a spicy sauce with ground melon seeds and spinach, with yam fu fu. We all ordered our food "spicy" but the heat level was moderate, though the ginger was dialed up pretty high. The other dishes we got (a spicy chicken stew and steak and spinach stew) were all outstanding. It was a tad on the pricey side ($42 for 3 entres w/o tip since it was carry out, though I always tip a few bucks on carryout. . . .), but I'd go back in a heartbeat. On a semi related note, the dining room isn't much to write home about, again, only an issue if you expect some sort of ambiance for $12-$15/plate.

I was kind of motivated towards the goat stew because some time ago I picked up a card (while window shopping at Dine on Preston Hwy) for the now defunct La Fogata out south, which advertised Birria, which I only found out had closed on a trip out there last week, so goat was on my mind. (Anyone on here know where to get some authentic Birria?) Anyway, on a futile trip out there, discovered a little taqueria that I can't even remember the name of right now, maybe La Monarca, that was quite awesome. Very good tacos de cabeza for those of you that like braised pig head tacos, plus a bowl of poblano crema laid down on the table alongside pico de gallo and what tasted like guajillo salsa right off the bat. 6501 Shepherdsville rd and worth the trip.

And while I'm on random ethnic eateries, any thoughts from forum members on Sari Sari? (will search on that shortly. . .)

Ken,

While I haven't been to Sari Sari, I can say that Filipino food is AWESOME! It's such an incredible fusion of different cuisines. They do pork and fish EXTREMELY well.

I have now officially eaten or sampled everything on the menu at Funmi's (except the moin-moin, and only because I have trouble getting there on Friday due to Highlands traffic, and the puff-puff because I'm usually too full to eat dessert), and I can tell you that it's all incredible. I'm not crazy about some of the ingredients used (namely collard greens), but when they come out of that kitchen, Funmi has magicked them up into something incredible and delicious. The fact that that place isn't packed and Funmi hasn't had to hire on help to run the front of house and kitchen is a real shame, because the food is awesome.

The wait time issue can still be a problem, but I was there for an early dinner the other day with a few other folks in the restaurant, and it seems like the new guy (whose name I can't remember) who was the waiter has helped speed things up (and he helps cook in the kitchen, I think... or at least does some of the prep). It has vastly improved since the first time I went, and it seems to be getting a little better every time. Plus, the waiter's suggestion to use goat for my dinner was perfect.

I got an order of kelewele (spiced, fried plantains) and the peppersoup with goat, and I'm kicking myself for having not ordered the peppersoup before now, because it was incredible. It's a spicy, thin broth that leaves a visible ring of spice crust on the bowl. It might overwhelm something more delicate, like chicken, but with the stronger flavor notes of the goat balance it out perfectly. Since goat's such a low-fat livestock, the meat is a bit chewier after the cooking process, but was gradually tenderized by the broth as I ate. It's going to be a go-to soup for me this winter, for sure.

Anyway, if you guys haven't been, I really recommend checking it out. The only way I can describe it is if Indian Food and Soul Food ingredients had a baby and named it Delicious. Also, try the African coffee. It's like regular drip coffee, but with cloves and some other savory spices brewed with the grounds. I definitely dig it.

Edited to add: Sorry to bump an antique thread, but I really enjoy eating there, and it's a business I really want to see doing well, if only because Funmi's been wonderful to me every time I've stepped into the door.

Thanks for bumping this thread because I missed it the first time around. We ventured over there tonight and my gosh - this place is fabulous. The food is so steeped in flavor that I can't stop thinking about it and am planning a return real soon. Everything posted above is consistent with our experience. Kicking myself because I missed it the first go-round. Go to this place soon as they deserve success.

We went by for lunch today and loved the food so much we went back for an early dinner before our guests arrived for the evening. Funmi is a delight and her food is phenomenal. I can't wait to return, and anyone that hasn't had time to get to the restaurant is really missing out.

Man! You folks are making me hungry- and I'm cooking dinner!

I'm glad you guys got to check it out, and I'm really glad you had good experiences there! I'm not surprised, but when you put yourself out there for a place, you feel responsible for publicizing a restaurant.

Well, the writing has been on the wall for awhile, but it finally happened. I went by Funmi's today for lunch (to get some pepper soup with goat, yum!) and there was a sign posted on the door. I snagged a picture with my phone so I can transcribe it verbatim:

"Dear valued customers, we regret to inform you we have closed our doors here on Bardstown Rd. but fret not! We will open again shortly once a new place has been secured. Follow us on Facebook or check us out at funmiscafe.com for updates."

It's not surprising. The food was great, but there was never a whole lot of traffic inside when I went by or when I ate there, and I know that the rents on Bardstown Road (especially for a space that large) are stupidly high. I can only hope that they are going to reopen somewhere more rent (and car) friendly. Maybe somewhere in the South End, near a more vibrant immigrant community. I really hope they can/do/will reopen, because I was really craving some Nigerian food and I hate to see an interesting culinary style disappear from the city's palate.