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Robin Garr

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Meeting mozzarella again for the first time at Mozz

by Robin Garr » Thu Dec 02, 2010 6:30 pm

LEO’s Eats with LouisvilleHotBytes

If your idea of mozzarella is bland shreds in a plastic bag from the supermarket, or pale, stringy cheese pulling away from the top of your pizza like bubble gum, you’ll want to reset your expectations before dining at Mozz.

This new, upscale and trendy Italian eatery landed this month in the Cobalt Building that once housed Primo. The name means “mozzarella,” and mozz’ is what they do.

We’re talking real, fresh mozzarella, like fior di Latte (“flower of the milk”), cheese that’s delicate, sweet and silken, made in-house with fresh, hormone-free milk from locavore cows; a far cry from the Styrofoam stuff in the supermarket bag.

It’s too soon for a full review or rating, but this place got so hot, so fast, that we couldn’t resist dropping by for dinner during its first week of operation.

Proprietors Matthew Antonovich, the chef, and Michael Cooper, working the front of the house, were at Louisville’s Casa Grisanti back in the ’80s, and it shows — in studied elegance, in quality Italian cuisine and, it must be said, in service that can veer close to over the top at times. Call me odd, but after the third or fourth time someone other than my server asks if I’m enjoying myself, I’d really prefer to be left alone.

It’s also noisy. Really noisy — loud enough to register in the 70s (“annoying”) with peaks in the 80s (“possible hearing damage”) on my iPhone’s Decibel Meter app; a volume that remained consistent when the three-piece combo was playing and even when it was not.

Those nitpicks aside, though, I was impressed with Mozz and its potential. ...

Full review on LouisvilleHotBytes:
http://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/meeti ... me-at-mozz
and in LEO Weekly:
http://leoweekly.com/dining/meeting-moz ... -time-mozz

Mozz Mozzarella Bar & Enoteca
445 E. Market St.
690-6699
http://www.mozzlouisville.com

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