by Stephen D » Mon Apr 26, 2010 10:57 am
Truth is: my lease came due and I felt there was nothing more to learn from the Irish Pub experience. I actually looked for the job before I looked for the accomadations. Divinity rewarded me with a position at a local bistro, just 6 months old. I liked the people and jumped on the opportunity, literally signing a rental agreement for property, just a block or so, away...
The idea was to find place where I could really develop as an individual. To be truthfull, I couldn't have found the right place, people and time for my culinary journey ambitions. A little Bistro, nestled inside the antique alley, this place became home for the next 2+ years.
The true mom-and-pop, this place was owned by a couple that divided the responsibilities between the FOH and BOH. She, the former executive chef at the Ritz-Carlton Miami and he, the manager. That was where they met, fell in love and sired two wonderful children, coming back to his hometown to set out on thier own...
The driving concept behind this food was that she wanted to do rustic food- she grew tired of having to place 'unecessary' garnishes and aplomb to her work. She still, of course wanted her food to be pretty- just in the mouth and not the eye. Fair enough, sister.
This is where it gets good!
This woman's food was, well, transcendant. Think 'Mediteranean.' More specifically, think SE France meets NW Italy, meets NE Spain. She had those influences, that conflaguration (word?) of cultural influence that spoke of years of consideration and refinement. Still the best things I have tasted in a number of categories. Her Osso Bucco, incredible. Those escargots? Wow- how did you get that mushroom-like texture? Those fish and chips? Seriously woman, you are evil! And the list went on and on.
Everything was made in-house, except bread, cheese and desserts. They featured the desserts of a local patissiere prominently in a chiller-case at the front of the store. Food was slowly worked at, stared at and ingredients were added at just the right time. This was where I learned that great dishes become so, not because of the ingredients, but because of when you added those ingredients, the terrior, the seasonality, etc. When I am asked who my mentor in the kitchen is, this woman's name comes out reflexibly (word?) My writing does it no justice- you have to just taste the expression on the plate- then you'd know...
Her husband, an absolute flake. Love him to death, but the man was crazy like 35 blackbirds in a small box. One of the worst managers, from an employee POV I have ever seen. The man would come in halfway through a conversation and make the 'executive decision' without knowing all the facts. Habitually, without realizing he had done so. Ahhh, yet, I have never seen his ilk again when it came to guest relations. He influenced me greatly and those of you who have enjoyed my hospitality will appreciate his watermark on my style. This was were I learned to add all of those amuse bouches, to truly be responsive to the guest's 'unspoken' needs without being overbearing. This is where I truly learned that leadership isn't about minimizing one's weaknesses, but maximizing one's strengths and finding those that compliment you by filling in your natural faults. Deep.
Now this was the true mom-and-pop. Thier kids would come to the restarant after school and play in the parking lot, work on homework or-on the occasion- put together sandwiches that would be sent out with the chain-gang from the local jail the next day (how did he land that gig? THAT'S what I'm talking about!) These people named thier restaurant after thier eldest son and made time to find a way to include them in thier daily affairs. They didn't just send the kids to an after school program. Watch. One of the two WILL grow up to be the next Grant Achatz!
This was also the place where I figured out my 'cycle of the day.' Years ago, I set out to develop a skill-set that would make me the best restauranteur I could be. It took me quite some time to realize that I absolutely hate serving lunch shifts. I'll do it and you'll be none the wiser. But I die a little inside with every shift- straight train to burnoutland for me. Yet, I love prepping. To me, the real work happens at this time. During dinner service, we just put it all together on the plate. Godwilling, when I get my own place, I will spend my days in the kitchen and my nights on the floor. I can work all day/everyday like this- it's not work to me now, it's play.
(not my best way of putting it, but it's the best I have right now)
This was a Wine Bar/Bistro- we served no hard alcohol, so my mid-afternoons were spent tasting wines with chef. It was quite funny, really- we'd land upon an exceptional bottling, look at each other and then exclaim 'Dee-licious.' Then we'd buy a couple/few cases! Ya know, Ida thought that to myself and made that same decision myself, yet it was so much more fun- so much more fufilling to have a partner in crime. We were family!
(I just previewed this and it's stupid-long and I am only halfway done, yet I don't want to pull a word outta it, so the end will have to be clipped- or not...)
Last edited by Stephen D on Mon Apr 26, 2010 11:25 am, edited 4 times in total.