by Aaron M. Renn » Sat Jun 09, 2007 9:53 am
Hello. I just had to write back to withdraw my endorsement of Charlie Trotter's as a special occasion place. I will admit it had been some years since I had been there, but it was always super top-notch. Well, I went back yesterday and was extremely disappointed.
First off, the prices are in the stratosphere. The basic dinner/wine pairing option for two is over $660 (including the 18% gratuity they automatically add to your bill). For this price, you have a right to expect perfection, and this place simply doesn't deliver.
There were only a couple of memorable dishes. One was a cantalope sorbet on top of feta cheese with some chopped radishes and a bit of mint. I thought this was like a haute cuisine version of the procsuitto/melon concept. There was also a pork loin dish that was excellent. But overall, the food, while solid, didn't blow me away.
I can actually forgive the restaurant for that. When you are doing the type of cooking Trotter does, it is inevitable that some dishes are either a) not going to work or b) aren't going to click with certain diners. So having an off food night is actually just the price of admission to seeking out this type of culinary experience.
What I can't forgive is their institutionalized service approach. I hate to say it, but this place has turned into a chop shop, a churn and burn, table-turning operation worthy of a Navy Pier tourist operation. My dinner from the time I walked into the door to the time I walked out, was two hours, by far the fastest dining time I've ever had in any such establishment. I don't think it is any accident that by holding the dining time to two hours, they are able to squeeze in an extra seating per night.
Everything they do is oriented towards speeding the process up.
- Automatically pouring Fiji still water as soon as you sit down - no one asked if I wanted sparkling (which, incidentally, I did), and I didn't see anyone in the restaurant who had it.
- Including a champagne in the wine pairing to avoid having to order aperitifs. You can argue that this is a nice thing, but it certainly has the effect of moving things along
- Dropping off the check while coffee cups were still half full.
- Maintaining a borderline non-existent digestif menu to keep you from ordering anything.
There were also a collection of other service faults (too numerous to list here - but I'm planning to write up a full report for my blog) and snafus ranging from highly mechanistic, depersonalized service, to parsimonious win pours, to having certain dishes substituted with no explanation of why.
I think if you were to go here for a special occasion thinking you were getting a magical meal, you could easily walk out disappointed and underwhelmed. I wouldn't consider this worth going to at half the price. It represents a vast change in approach from the impeccable food and service I used to see here.
I guess I should probably also mention that it has been a few years since I've been to Tru, so my endorsement is probably out of date there too. But all of the others, excepting Gold Coast Dogs and Hot Doug's, I've been to recently.