Primo wins CJ's four-star praise

Congrats to Primo- the CJ review and most postings attest to a job well done. I will look forward to my next Louisville visit so I can try the place.
I do find the gelato controversy interesting, but would agree that a great outsourced product from a local purveyor is perfectly acceptable. Having been a chef in a couple of Italian places I faced the same dilemma on outsourcing. Most pastry chef’s I’ve worked with have had some specialties they were especially adept at like chocolate, blown sugar work, or wedding cakes, but not gelato. Gelato is highly specialized as well, and requires an investment in special equipment for a superior product. Now, I doubt that Spiaggia in Chicago, Felidia in NYC, or Valentino in LA would promote the use of an outside purveyor, however they might consider having an outside source customize a product just for them. I know a company in NYC does that for many high end places. Go to http://www.laboratoriodelgelato.com if interested. Local is still best! javascript:emoticon(':D')

Primo is a fantastic restaurant with my favorite wine list in the city. I've had many memorable meals there, including my rehearsal dinner for my wedding. I do, however, think that David Clancy makes a fair point regarding the use of the same gelato that I can buy at Fresh Market.

That said, this is a restaurant that deserves 4 stars regardless of the color of the tablecloths because they are making creative, delicious, and challenging cuisine.

[quote="Ron Johnson"] I do, however, think that David Clancy makes a fair point regarding the use of the same gelato that I can buy at Fresh Market.quote]

Is Gilberto Gelato available at Fresh Market? I didn't think they were retailing it commercially yet.
I would much rather pay for an outstanding outsourced product than something made in house by someone not totally familar with the process, and gelato can be very tricky- or so I'm told by my friends courageous enough to attempt it.
Congrats Primo- great work.

I do, however, think that David Clancy makes a fair point regarding the use of the same gelato that I can buy at Fresh Market.quote]

Is Gilberto Gelato available at Fresh Market? I didn't think they were retailing it commercially yet.
I would much rather pay for an outstanding outsourced product than something made in house by someone not totally familar with the process, and gelato can be very tricky- or so I'm told by my friends courageous enough to attempt it.
Congrats Primo- great work.

For the record, I was, in no way, dissing Primo and I personally think that thay have earned a 4 star rating. Having said that, my rant is mainly concerned with how pastries have become an afterthought in our business. and restaurants seem more inclined to farm it out. I love the fact that Primo uses a "locally" produced gelato but I also think that a "4 star" rating should be based on how the dish was executed and not where it was bought......

I didn't mean to imply that you were dissing anyone. I did mean to imply that you made a good point about the importance of a restaurant offering the full gamut of food and services to their customers that are made in-house, including dessert.

I haven't been around much but had to drop in and congratulate Mike and staff for the great review. He deserves it.I've become friends with Mike over the past year and I have seen his personal sacrifice for his love ,food.Marty just told everyone else what most everyone here already knew.The man can cook.

Just a thought. Using the Bakery at Sullivan College is a possible outsourcing solution versus buying premade from a distributor. There are some other high quality desserts from Libbys out of Cincy. There is also Treats in New Albany that is doing some stuff in Southern Indiana I believe.

I would agree with Dave that Pastry Arts is a dying talent and a good pastry chef is worth every penny.

I think Dave Clancy is well aware of Treet's.

[Robin Garr]

I think Dave Clancy is well aware of Treet's.

I'd also add that, as much as I respect Sullivan and the Bakery operation, I find its products more "commercial" than "artisan." If I were running a restaurant and had hopes of attaining four-star status, I'm not sure it's the first place I'd look for outsourcing.

I've been thinking seriously about this thread since Dave brought up the point about outsourcing desserts--even good ones. I don't do restaurant work, cause that's just not my thing, and I do understand that having a pastry chef onsite may not be affordable for every restaurant. However, I think that its a valid point that four stars may not be totally earned if the restaurant is outsourcing some of the food served. And I love Gilberto's Gelato and think it is a truly, truly fine artisan product.

I also have to agree with Robin's assessment of The Bakery's work, even though I am a big, loud Sullivan supporter. I know that their program allows them to customize a dessert for just one restaurant with the guarantee that they won't sell that specific dessert to another restaurant. And they're waaaaaaay better than Cisco desserts, but still, its not inhouse-made.

When a restaurant tells me they rework the menu every week to take advantage of local produce or even just to "mix it up" a little, challenge the kitchen whatever, then I'm impressed with that level of dedication to food. That takes a lot of work, a lot of thought, a lot of passion in the kitchen. And I have to wnder why that same degree of work, thought and passion doesn't extend to the dessert menu.

Do desserts contribute enough to the bottom line? If they were really fabulous might the restaurant sell more of them? Could a restaurant share a pastry chef with another nearby? Cafe Metro and Uptown have an ideal arrangement.

But I think that my bottom line is that Dave's right. I give Primo 3 and 7/8 stars. And that's why I like the points system better than the star system.

I think Leah's point is well-taken. I do think that there is a difference between a restaurant outsourcing its pastry work to a professional who freelances for restaurants, and buying a retail product that is available to the public at large already. For example, if I went to a restaurant and the waiter told me that the desserts were made for them by Leah Stewart I would be fine with that. But, if they said that their desserts were bought from a bakery where I could walk in off the street and buy the same thing, I would be a little disappointed no matter how good they were. It's a small difference, granted, but one that matters when you are in 4 star territory.

I also agree with Leah and Ron. Having "designer" desserts prepared for a specific restaurant to compliment their style and sense of presentation would seem very important in a four-star environment.

Since I don't eat sweets of any kind, I shouldn't have an opinion, but Ron's email rang very true (as did Leah's) to me.

an exception to this is anything that is offered gratis. I've got no problem with the fact that a restaurant may not bake its own bread in house when it is being offered to me for no charge.

I guess a question would be, how do you know? In principle I agree, but I don't know how one would police that issue.

Well, TP, I ask.