LEO's Eats with Robin Garr
The steak-and-egg burger at Fontleroy's

To hear the buzz emanating from the local foodie blogosphere you might think that the newborn Fontleroy's represents the second coming of Chef Georges Auguste Escoffier or somebody.
They've got a point, too. There is a lot to like about Fontleroy's. It's Chef Allan Rosenberg's latest venture, and he's cheffed a string of winners with a relentless focus on food quality and creative preparation. Service is very strong. And our own Marsha ("Industry Standard") Lynch whomps up some excellent desserts. It's in a great Bardstown Road location, and it's fun.
But let's have a reality check on the buzz machine: Yes, this little eatery has a lot going for it. It has a lot of potential. But it's young. It's new. It's really good, but it's a little early to declare it the next big thing. It takes a while to work the kinks out of even the finest startup; and the smartest chefs - I'm pretty sure that Rosenberg belongs in this group - know that there's always room for improvement. They don't just open the doors and then sit back and wait for applause.
They've put a lot of effort and no small expense into converting the former Uncle Maddio's space into something more stylish. The shiny new white subway tile, though, prompted Mary to snark that it looks like a McDonald's. Our friend Anne, who is not usually known for snark, doubled down on that, adding, "It looked like McDonalds went to TJ Maxx and got a sparkly cheap new dress."
The tile walls plus marble tile flooring, large glass windows, undraped wood-look tables and not overly comfortable metal chairs make for a hard-edged environment that bounces sound around. "I couldn't hear you guys across the table without leaning in and cocking my ears," Anne said. I think our friend Don said something like that, too, but I couldn't make it out.
On the plus side, the menu is short but well-chosen, save for a shortage of vegetarian and vegan options unusual for the hip Highlands scene. Careful attention is given to quality, mostly local ingredients; indeed, food prep and quality in general is four-star, and I'd expect no less from a chef of Rosenberg's skills. Marsha's desserts were as memorable as we expected, and service from industry veteran Patrick K. was friendly, courteous and professional.
So, yes, there's a lot to like. Go. You'll be happy. Expect excellent food and service and a thoughful, if short, drinks program, all at surprisingly fair prices for the neighborhood. But don't expect a Michelin-starred gastronomic temple, because that would be silly. ...
Read the full review on LouisvilleHotBytes,
http://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/?p=5392
See this column also in LEO Weekly:
http://www.leoweekly.com/2015/10/fontle ... zz-builds/
Fontleroy's
2011 Grinstead Drive
882-2507
Facebook: http://bit.ly/Fontleroys
Robin Garr's rating: 90 points