by Dan Thomas » Fri Apr 22, 2011 8:03 am
We went to dinner at Gary's On Spring last night to celebrate a birthday and I came away quite impressed.
Firstly, I feel a big plus is the fact that they have an ample parking lot out back so there is no scrambling around for a spot on the street. The building itself has been really transformed and has a simple, understated elegance. The decks appear that they will be very inviting once the weather figures out what season it is. I can see dining alfresco being a big draw. The upstairs bar-lounge area is nice as well. The first floor dining room is warmly lit and simply decorated and was quite pleasant until the room started to fill up with patrons and it quickly got pretty loud. There appears to be nothing to soak up any noise from the long & narrow high ceiling, hardwood floor room, so it had an echo chamber effect. For myself, that was the only non-positive thing about the evening. Everything else was quite good. The attentive service was well paced and unobtrusive as the waitstaff just kind of appeared when anything was needed. And the food was delicious. Chef Harold has really put together a nice menu.
We started with an order of the Chicken Fritters. Lightly fried spheres of chicken, peppers and onion with just a touch of curry with an addictive sweet chili garlic chutney. It was a harbinger of good things to come.
The ladies both ordered the Potato Encrusted Grouper. This will most likely become the signature dish at Gary's as I found my sample to be one of the most balanced dishes I have ever eaten. It is one of the best seafood dishes I've ever had in Louisville. A recurring theme during the meal for me was Chef Harold's' sauce work and the Dijon Chive Cream Sauce that accompanied the grouper is outstanding. He had a delicate touch with some assertive flavors and it really made the dish. When I was talking with Chef Harold after the meal he admitted that they have been selling a lot of this dish. I personally don't think he will ever be able to remove it from the menu once the word really starts getting around about Gary's
I ordered the Veal Chop, curious about how the Dark Truffle Mornay Sauce would pair with the Citrus Tomato Coulis on the plate. Two things in my mind I would have never put together but it worked perfectly. The rich, earthy Mornay was actually highlighted by the acidity of the coulis which paired well with the perfectly cooked veal.
My father's Bison Ribeye was a pretty straightforward approach that you might find in most finer establishments around town. But once again the sauces really set themselves apart on the plate. The rich Demi Glace and the Bearnaise were both well executed examples of what these two sauces are supposed to be.
Pretty satiated, we almost didn't try dessert but I left it to Chef to pick one for the table to share and was pleasantly surprised by the White Chocolate Mousse Cheesecake. It was actually lighter than it sounds and the perfect size for sharing. A fabulous end to an exceptional meal.
All in all, Gary's on Spring makes it much harder to decide on where to dine out in this city.It is a welcome addition in my book. It seems to complement the finer tables in town, and I believe will ultimately be considered in the same circle as Jack Fry's, Lilly's and the like.
Great job guys and keep up the good work!
Dan ThomasOperator SpecialistWaypointdthomas@awpwaypoint.com"People who aren't interested in food seem rather dry, unloving and don't have a real gusto for life."
Julia Child