Industry Standard: food industry wish for '11: Street food

[Robin Garr]

Industry Standard: Insider info for those who dine out

My Louisville food industry wish for ’11: Street food!

By Marsha Lynch

What would I like to see happen in the local restaurant industry this year? It’s a no-brainer: We need more street food options.

What is “street food”? It’s ready-to-eat food purchased from a street vendor, usually in a busy public space. Street food can come from a cart, a truck, a trailer or a stall. It’s fast, it’s cheap, it’s convenient. Done properly, it’s tasty and wholesome. Due to space constraints, it’s often highly specialized, allowing the vendor to concentrate on a handful of dishes executed repeatedly, and therefore to near-perfection every time.

What do we currently have? A few hot dog carts hang around downtown and near a couple of suburban home-supply marts. Las Gorditas, Pat and Esperanza Costas’ fabulous gordita trailer, parks at Eastland Shopping Center, Bardstown Road and Watterson Trail on weekends. Reinold Febles has made a stir recently with El Rumbon, his Cuban food trailer circulating biweekly between auto dealership parking lots around Oxmoor Center. A few others have come and gone, and I’m sure I’m leaving out lesser-known taquerías-on-wheels out Preston Highway and in Southern Indiana. But really, that’s about it. Why?

CNN recently named Portland, Ore., “World’s Best Street Food City 2010.” I have a feeling Anthony Bourdain might have a thing or two to say about that, but anyway: What do they have that we don’t? Vision. Years ago, Portland’s leaders decided to encourage the cultural and economic expansion that inevitably comes with the street food trade. They relaxed their interpretation of the food code. They lowered mobile food licensing fees. They amended regulations so food trucks and carts could fill entire parking lots (“pod lots”) downtown, often with common eating areas akin to a food court in a mall. The result has been astonishing.

“But wait,” some will say, “what about cleanliness? Sure, the dirty hippies in Portland might be fine eating dreadlock soup sold from the back of a pickup truck, but we don’t go for that around here. Harrumph.”

To that, I say, look at the success of the Bardstown Road and Beargrass farmers markets. How many of you love to go to the markets on Saturday mornings? You’ve had the omelets there. It’s the same basic principle. Good, wholesome food can be prepared safely, on site, and in a clean environment without being required to have a certain number of hood vents, a certain type of tile floor and four sinks. Did you know that if you want to license a food truck in Louisville, you’re required to have a plumbing plan designed by a master plumber?

It’s not only that the regulations are strict and prohibitive, they’re murky — some might even say opaque. Frankly, they are nearly impossible to even discover. Visit the Metro Louisville Department of Health and Wellness website and try to find out about mobile or food venue regulations. I dare you. Or, if you’re bored, call them up and ask about the regulations. Wait two days, call back, and ask a different person, and you’ll get a different answer.

Let’s get it together, people. Call, e-mail or write your Metro Council person and say we want the benefits that come from a vibrant local street food scene. Street food vendors hire workers and pay taxes and licensing fees, too. It doesn’t have to be this hard, and it’s the next logical step in our burgeoning status as a mecca for foodies. Come on, all you deregulation fans, free-market wonks and Rand Paul supporters — join us, the Louisville foodies, and demand sanity in our street-food licensing requirements and operating regulations.

Besides, why should the dirty hippies have all the fun?

Marsha Lynch has worked at many Louisville independent restaurants, including Limestone, Jack Fry’s, Jarfi’s, L&N Wine Bar and Bistro, and Café Lou Lou. She now works for her alma mater, Sullivan University, as sous chef at the Gardiner Point residence hall.

Read it on LouisvilleHotBytes:
http://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/my-lo ... ustry-wish

and in LEO Weekly:
http://leoweekly.com/dining/industry-st ... ine-out-24

Okay, I don't normally pimp my own article, but did anyone read this? (Obviously, some people did, but I'm disheartened that I get more comments on bringing a Happy Meal into a fine dining restaurant than on this issue.) Thoughts? Would anyone, like me, like to see more street food options in Louisville this year?

Is there anything we can do about it?

Okay I'll bite.

Even when you have a great indoor space it is very difficult to make it in the food service industry. With a mobile unit you compound all of that. It is all about the money. The trucks are expensive. There is a limited audience that wants to eat on the side walk or in a parking lot. It is totally weather dependent. The successful ones in other cities rely on volume. Crank out the covers and you can survive.

In terms of the regulations, I can not really speak to that. But I would certainly want it to be up to standard. Who wants to eat out of a mobile roach trap? Don't get me wrong, I am not saying that the current ones are dirty. I just want them to be inspected.

When I lived in NY I quickly learned not to eat the "Dirty Water Dogs" from hotdog vendors. I was working in the meat packing district one night and I saw a group of guys bring out about 7 hot dog carts from a warehouse. Shortly a group of homeless guys appeared and were literally standing in the things with rags and wiping them out. A quick rinse with a hose and they were done. Yummy!

Okay, that's one opinion. Let us remember, every mobile food venue is not "wiped out by homeless people".

Really, Will?

Of course they should be up to standards. But should they have to have a master plumber do a drawn design for their plumbing system? Should they have to move their truck every few hours?

Good Job

Marsha, I enjoyed the article...but.. I don't think Louisville, as much as I love my city, has the population mass to compete on any level with the bigger markets. It is always the crucial blow to the any "scene" in Louisville, believing that there are enough people to support a particular and worthwhile trend. Used to be several vegetarian restaurants in Louisville, gone. Used to be a small late night bakery on Washington street. Gone. We can barely support a street music scene much less a food truck on every corner. I wish we could. This is a segregated (not racially) city and will remain so for quite a while unless the downtown epicenter brings in artists and urban pioneers by the trainload. Remember the Mark Twain quote " When the Apocalypse comes, I hope I'm Kentucky, because it will be ten years later" With that said, I enjoy your articles and look forward to more. Bill Shady Lane Cafe

[Robin Garr]

Used to be several vegetarian restaurants in Louisville, gone.

Zen Garden, Zen Teahouse, Sweet Surrender?

Robin, I consider those more of specialty vegetarian fair and fairly busy but not rocking with business. I was thinking more along the lines of Rainbow Blossoms old place, comfort food with a varied menu, but then I'm am old hippie and worked in Vegetarian Places in NY where all food stuffs were incorporated. I have not been to Sweet Surrender since then went over to the Veggie side, so I'll try it soon. But I think you understand what I'm saying about the population base in Louisville. We always overestimate the mass of people it takes to keep a place, idea, etc.. stay relevant. I love the concept of food trucks and flirt with many a craigslist offer. They are very reasonable in many postings, but do they meet CIty Standards...I do not know. I do know the morass of bureaucracy, having run a cart down by the Court Building back in the Seventies. We did pita bread sandwiches and did quite well...or so I thought at the time. I hope we evolve quickly and fill every corner with eclectic ethnic, pastry, ice cream, etc..trucks. I remain skeptical though.

Marsha, I enjoyed the article...but.. I don't think Louisville, as much as I love my city, has the population mass to compete on any level with the bigger markets. It is always the crucial blow to the any "scene" in Louisville, believing that there are enough people to support a particular and worthwhile trend. Used to be several vegetarian restaurants in Louisville, gone. Used to be a small late night bakery on Washington street. Gone. We can barely support a street music scene much less a food truck on every corner. I wish we could. This is a segregated (not racially) city and will remain so for quite a while unless the downtown epicenter brings in artists and urban pioneers by the trainload. Remember the Mark Twain quote " When the Apocalypse comes, I hope I'm Kentucky, because it will be ten years later" With that said, I enjoy your articles and look forward to more. Bill Shady Lane Cafe

I generally agree, but I think there is more to it than just lack of population. Louisville is just too car-centric to have any appreciable street food scene. Our orientation, (attitude, city layout, public transportation, etc.), is just not pedestrian friendly enough, IMHO.

I am all for the relaxing of regulations regarding street food, it's a good start. However, the real obstruction to establishing a significant street food scene is in the fabric of Louisville's culture....sort of like trying to establish a muscle car/hot rod scene in Tibet.

“But wait,” some will say, “what about cleanliness? Sure, the dirty hippies in Portland might be fine eating dreadlock soup sold from the back of a pickup truck, but we don’t go for that around here. Harrumph.”

Sometimes you write pure poetry, Marsha.

But seriously, the first thing Louisville needs to make this successful is a good location where there is consistent foot traffic. And that would be a challenge.

Let's see...

• Downtown is nice (I'm thinking the Belvedere here), and at least the lunchtime crowds would generate some business, but it's definitely not a 24/7 place.
• The highlands has a constant flow of people, but it's difficult to find space to park a car, let alone a truck.
• I'm sure you can find a parking lot in St. Matthews (or another suburban location) for street vendors to congregate, but customers would need to get in a car and drive there.
• Old Louisville might have the space, but it could be difficult to get neighborhood acceptance.
• Imagine the masses standing outside eating gourmet finger food in Butchertown when the wind's blowing the "wrong" way.
• Norton Commons? I don't think so.

On top of all that, I suspect the owners of brick-and-mortar restaurants might look askance at this. And then there's the whole health department thing.

Not to say this wouldn't work somewhere around here, but you'd have to have a really good plan and strong driving force to pull it off successfully.

Okay, that's one opinion. Let us remember, every mobile food venue is not "wiped out by homeless people".

Really, Will?

Of course they should be up to standards. But should they have to have a master plumber do a drawn design for their plumbing system? Should they have to move their truck every few hours?

Really Marsha?
I never said they were all treated like this. It was more of an aside. An observation from my past. Did not mean to ruffle the feathers and all.

But if brick and mortar places have to be approved for sanitation so should the mobile units. Where is the food being prepared? Is there a prep kitchen some place? Where is everything cleaned up at the end of a shift? Where is the food stored? Where do the staff wash up? These are all concerns or should be. If there is no prep kitchen to inspect then the truck has to be ready to accomodate these needs.
The other issue: Can you do the covers to make it?

But if brick and mortar places have to be approved for sanitation so should the mobile units. Where is the food being prepared? Is there a prep kitchen some place? Where is everything cleaned up at the end of a shift? Where is the food stored? Where do the staff wash up? These are all concerns or should be. If there is no prep kitchen to inspect then the truck has to be ready to accomodate these needs.

Will's point gets at my thinking which is "brick and mortar" places probably don't want to see the introduction of street food. While Marsha's column draws connections between health code and the local government, it does not extend the connection to include the association between health code and the success of brick and mortar places. This is a competitive marketplace. While some of the health code my ruffle the feathers of restaurant owners and chefs, the code creates a high standard that must be met to enter the marketplace (those letter grades are basically scarlet letters). Those who can't maintain that standard get left out. Those that can't even qualify to that standard don't get to participate. Non-participation of street venders is in the best interest of the brick and mortar places that would surely lose - no matter the location - some customers to these street vender upstarts.

Will, I'm in no way saying you are arguing this. It's more an argument about the marketplace than one individual's thinking. Given your place's location, 1) jefferson county law doesn't rule and 2) your location is probably exempt from the "losing customers" argument. I probably should have said "urban-ish" location.

Someone please bring a great food truck downtown to Thoracic Park. We are captive here. Once you park you dare not leave your parking spot. Thoracic Park = UL Hospital/Jewish/Nortons/KCH. We need a Gordita Trailer or an equivalent. Please!

I think it could absolutely work here - and I think it's probably only a matter of time until it does. Hopefully it's sooner rather than later. Louisville seems to have a serious inferiority complex that it needs to work on.

Great article Marsha!

Does anyone know if other midwestern-ish cities similar to Louisville have a thriving street food industry? Indy? Columbus? Pittsburgh? Nashville? StL? Cinti.? Cleve?
If so, what did these cities do to make it a success and are there lesson for us to learn?
Just curious.
Winger