The Gateway Drug

As foodies, we all must climb the mountain that is offal. Our friends, tethered to our lines are compelled to do the same. I got the perfect dish and, to be honest, probably the most inspired thing I have seen thusfar this year.

The sweetbread appetizer at Jack's is this offering. Spinach gritz topped with cornmeal-encrusted thymus and topped with a reduction sauce, of sorts...

Hehe, so good. In fact, unlike any other application I have seen. And Chef McGarity is killing it with this one. Your mother would slap you, it's that good.

The texture (usually the issue with variety meats) is not unlike well-cooked cod, encrusted with yellow cornmeal and pan-fried. Soft and crunchy. The reduction, I hesitate to speak upon, yet it is a thing one should speak upon.

Go get you one- then you'll be a part of the grouping of 'those who know!'

As foodies, we all must climb the mountain that is offal.

No we don't brother.

As foodies, we all must climb the mountain that is offal.

No we don't brother.

Yes, you do!

I'm gonna feed you the goodness, sooner or later!

(come to the dark-side)

[Robin Garr]

Here was my take on Equus's sweetbreads in June 2009, prior to Dallas's arrival and the full merger of the two sides, but it was, and is, awesome offal:

>>>
Okay, who wants organ meat? Internal organs, that is, livers, kidneys, hearts and even more unmentionable selections.

All together now: “Eeeeuuuuwwww!”

But wait! People around the world have been enjoying organ meats for millennia, and those who shun them on the basis of the “eeuuww” factor are missing something good.

This is one of the many reasons I love dining with my wife, Mary, and our good friend Lucinda. They’re adventurous foodies, and showed it the other night when we spotted sweetbreads on the menu at Equus.

“I’m having that,” Lucinda said with a happy smile. “Can we share?” asked Mary. Me, too.

What’s a sweetbread? It isn’t bread, and it’s not a dessert. It’s a calf’s thymus gland, or perhaps a bit of his pancreas. Vegetarians please look away.

For us, it made a fine start to an exceptional dinner that cemented 24-year-old Equus’s continued stature as one of the city’s top 10 fine-dining establishments. ...

The sweetbreads ($9) could not have offended the most squeamish diner, particularly one who did not know what it was. Three bite-size bits of tender, sweet, barely chewy veal were bathed in a rich, dark-brown veal reduction flavored with rosemary, mushrooms and Madeira wine. ...<<<

http://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/class ... high-style

I'm with David on this one.

No thanks. Not my thing.

I had them once at Palermo Viejo and could only think, why? They weren't bad, nor were they good, so why eat them? Would I try them again? Yes, but it would be because of a post like this one. Maybe Dallas has made them good, not just ok.

I enjoy the sweetbreads at Palermo as well. I'll concede that they are not for everyone, but I enjoyed the flavor and unique texture in their simple preparation. I think it took me two attempts to fully appreciate them.

I don't think that I would make an entire meal of them, but I enjoy them as part of La Parillada or an app.

On topic, the ones at Equus described above sound pretty good as well. I have yet to make it to Equus since the arrival of the new chef, but plan on doing so soon, as it has always been a neighborhood favorite. I hope not too much has changed.

Also, the combination pho at Vietnam Kitchen is an interesting introduction to offal as well. It was my first foray 3 years ago into cuts of meats I previously avoided.

As foodies, we all must climb the mountain that is offal.

No we don't brother.

Oh come on,just think of all the nasty bits that are in various sausages. I am not opposed to most offal, but on occasion I find the texture(as Stephen mentioned) of certain items a bit much. A good example would be brains, tried them numerous times but I just dont like the texture.
We do like sweetbreads,and out here in the sticks its not uncommon to have a neighbor drop some fresh ones on us. I think a trip to Jacks for sweetbread apps and cocktails is in order.
Anyone know where the name "sweetbread" originated?

Sissies.

[Robin Garr]

Anyone know where the name "sweetbread" originated?

Wikipedia offers an ancient explanation that makes some sense:

>> The word "sweetbread" is first attested in the 16th century, but the logic behind the name is unclear.[2] However, the etymology of the word "sweetbread" is thought to be of Old English origin. "Sweet" is probably used since the thymus is sweet and rich tasting, as opposed to savory tasting muscle flesh.[3] "Bread" may come from Old English word "bræd" 'flesh.' <<

Offhand, I would have guessed that it's a more modern (19th century) innovation based on the simple reality that "sweetbreads" sounds a lot more appetizing than "thymus gland."

As the first sous chef at Equus, I cooked hundreds of orders of sweetbreads with the same veal reduction sauce..... it was and is one of my favorite meats. The spinach grits sound like an inspiration. The texture of sweet breads should almost melt in your mouth. It does not taste like chicken! Ha-Ha. Something so refined about it. Cheers. Bill

As the first sous chef at Equus, I cooked hundreds of orders of sweetbreads with the same veal reduction sauce..... it was and is one of my favorite meats. The spinach grits sound like an inspiration. The texture of sweet breads should almost melt in your mouth. It does not taste like chicken! Ha-Ha. Something so refined about it. Cheers. Bill

To be honest, I looked down the app list, once for good measure. Being #2 or #3 down the page, I had already made up my mind. Didn't even give the thing a second-glance. Snap, print, done. I'm not a critic, just a food-junkie and I was clapping my hands like a schoolchild after the first bite (no, seriously, some people were looking at me like I was on crack.)

Oh, the guy to my left ordered the same thing and the people to my right were feeling my decision. Beast.

I almost forgot- the tender did an awaesome appertif with gin and campari that worked well.

Even more so: Gary F, Joy and Dallas took time out of thier day to stop by and shoot the breeze with hugs and enthusiastic conversation.

It takes nothing away from the dish- the thing will always be evaluated in an almost scientific manner, yet hospitality will always be king in my book...

topped with cornmeal-encrusted thymus

I'm sorry Stephen but crusty thymus is something one is diagnoised with, not something to order off a menu. That's OK though, just more for you. And before anyone calls me a sissy I have eaten sea slug!

topped with cornmeal-encrusted thymus

I'm sorry Stephen but crusty thymus is something one is diagnoised with, not something to order off a menu. That's OK though, just more for you. And before anyone calls me a sissy I have eaten sea slug!

Hehe. Classic.