Tragedy and Triumph

Ellen P's post brought this one to the front of my queue. After her experience, I felt I should share my own experiences as a guest in the big easy. I'll bump hers to the top for a chronological layout (although I have learned it won't stay that way! )

At Tales of the Cocktail (TOTC) I quickly found that my experience wasn't going to be that of anyone else's. We were there on business- to report to all this event and to do it well. With the last-second loss of our cameraman/cinemetographer I became the camera guy. 14 hours each day holding a camera. No time for anything, really, just work.

Oh, but the foodie in me was not gonna be denied. I chose my spot, grabbed my partner by his metaphorical ear, and said 'come now.' No wasn't an answer and he understood it.

I knew what I was looking for- a landmark location, the best Sazerac possible and the best of a New Orleans classic dish I could get my paws on. Preferrably in the place accredited with it's creation. It's actually a very easy thing to do there, they are responsible for so much...

So we pop across the street to a fine dining establishment and found the soft 'no' of 'we're full with TOTC.' The dining room was almost empty. Ahhh...dress code! Ooops! Sometimes the guest is wrong and needs to be gently reminded of such.

She did it well, so I am not taking slight to that- just turn around and walk away. There's more to experience here.

The Tragedy

Left, right, left, etc. Tom thought I had lost my mind. Every once in a while, I would stop, put my nose to the air, and change direction. I was following the smell of grilled meat- fresh, from an active stove. None of the hot dog stand blahs (not impressed with the dogs in NO.) He thought I was crazy, until I brought us to the door of Antoine's. Yahtzee! Home of the Oyster Rockefeller. We went inside and pulled up a couple of chairs at the frontal bar.

Of course, I was happy to be there.

'What's your favorite drink?' I asked

'I don't drink,' said the bartender.

I became uneasy. It's a pet-peeve of mine, this. If you don't ever taste your own work, how do you know it's any good?

'Ok, your best Sazerac, please.'

He ruffled around a bit and produced for me a bastardized version of the New Orleans classic. What annoyed me even more is that he made small talk with me about attending TOTC the next day. He knew I was a bartender here for the king of our events- knew I would know the friggen difference. Or maybe he didn't- even worse.

So, drinking the un-absinthed, un-flamed orange sacriledge of a cocktail he placed before me, I asked the next question, simply to give him an out- a way to shine...

'So, what's your favorite thing on the menu?' I knew Antoine's was the birthplace of the Rocky and was gonna order it anyways.

'I don't eat here,' he replied.

I didn't miss a beat. I played it off like 'I feel ya, it's cool.'

'Well, let's start with the Rockefeller,' Tom nodding cause he knew I wouldn't lead him astray- shoot I led him here with my nose.

It gets worse- a server comes to the bar, griping about a guest that is drinking too much cola. Then I see it- he is serving the man a double-cola out of a decanter! You serve wine out of that! Expensive wine! And you can't just run it through dish. You have to use a special tool to clean the curve between the base and the neck.

The 'Barkeep' places the order, goes back to his tasks. Tom and I are discussing some of the classic NOrleans dishes and whatnot (remember: foodieStephen at this point...)

Then he does it:

Not 5 feet away from me, in front of a regular (who, like everyone else is drinking beer) he says, '(x) like those guys' and points to us. I knew what he said, cause I've done it myself, behind closed doors.

You may feel my questions were out of line, that my enthusiasm to be in your establishment was a bit too much. Whatever- I could have smelled. But you never, ever, say such a thing within my earshot as a guest!

I'm chomping gravel now. He disappears into the kitchen for 3-5-7 minutes (timed, btw.) If he spit in my Oysters would I ever know the difference? Do I want to pay $12 for a crappy drink? For that abuse from a rookie?

For the first time in my life, I walked out of the restaurant- no paying for your overpriced, underperformed drink. Nor did I drink it. Feed it to the dogs, for all I care.

The Triumph

So, here we are in the street and I look up and see The Royal House. Tom is quite uncomfortable with me at this moment- I sense it. I break the silence...

'Watch.'

We go in, pony up to the bar and ask the exact same questions.

This bartender was friendly, was happy to have us. She produced an excellent Sazerac (minus the flamed orange- I found out they all do the twist these days, go figure.)

They didn't offer a Rocky, yet the mussles were to die for. We ordered more bread, they were that good. They have a oyster station, yet we were avoiding such fare with the gulf incident and all.

She recommended the Lobster Ravioli, yet I've seen that before, so I chose the mufaletta. Spot-on deliciousness!

The manager, Shad Stearns, stopped by twice to chat with us. We ordered more drinks. Sat and ran up quite the bill, mind you (business expense, ching!)

To be honest, we enjoyed their company so much, we closed the joint down. And here I am talking about it- go there when you go there, they do it right!

Indeed, there was a point in which I spied Luca B walking to (wherever he was walking to.) We sat across the street, chatting and he can verify my tale as truth.

Great hospitality will sell your establishment- people will want to be around you and will sing your praises. Crappy hospitality will make people not want to eat your food and they will sing for you a dirge so deep and long-lasting, you may never get that business back.

Indeed, people don't care how cool you are. If you don't give good service they will find someone who does.

Yeah, Antoine's is has been phoning it in for decades. There's really nothing good about it. Sad for a place with such a rich history.

[Robin Garr]

Yeah, Antoine's is has been phoning it in for decades. There's really nothing good about it. Sad for a place with such a rich history.

Antoine's also takes to the extreme a practice that we see in at least one prominent Louisville eatery: If you're a regular, and known to the staff, you get one level of service. If you're the rest of us, not so much.

the best Sazerac possible

Who serves the best one in Louisville?

Yeah, Antoine's is has been phoning it in for decades. There's really nothing good about it. Sad for a place with such a rich history.

Antoine's also takes to the extreme a practice that we see in at least one prominent Louisville eatery: If you're a regular, and known to the staff, you get one level of service. If you're the rest of us, not so much.

I got that feeling about a LOT of places when we were in New Orleans. Ate at a really good Italian joint near the Quarter, but felt like we were lepers the entire time we were there. Same for some joint we wandered into for lunch (had one of those atrium set-ups to eat outside).

the best Sazerac possible

Who serves the best one in Louisville?

My vote would be 732 Social, but I can't say I've sampled them at many places around town. I would venture to say that the Blind Pig could do a pretty good one.

[Robin Garr]

the best Sazerac possible

Who serves the best one in Louisville?

My vote would be 732 Social, but I can't say I've sampled them at many places around town. I would venture to say that the Blind Pig could do a pretty good one.

Dang! A serious answer. I was going to say that's like asking who serves the best mint julep in Sacramento.

My vote would be 732 Social, but I can't say I've sampled them at many places around town. I would venture to say that the Blind Pig could do a pretty good one.

Dang! A serious answer. I was going to say that's like asking who serves the best mint julep in Sacramento.

Brad probably hit the nail on the head. Louisville is becoming a better cocktail city almost every day and I'm loving every second of it. Still waiting on Stephen's opinion as the Pig and Social are pretty new to the cocktail scene.

Whoops, my bad, I am editing to make this my "good." Well, I think that Jared (who used to be at Basa and then 732 Social, but now is at Village Anchor Pub and Roost) makes the best Sazerac in Louisville by a country mile. If he is working the bar Sunday evening at the HoyBytes offline that is what I will be ordering. Furthermore, I know that Stephen D agrees with me on this one because he purposely introduced me to Jared's Sazerac back in Jared's Basa days.

Louisville is becoming a better cocktail city almost every day and I'm loving every secon of it.

Then why can't anyone make my Charlie Chaplin like I keep asking for, but never get....

Then why can't anyone make my Charlie Chaplin like I keep asking for, but never get....

Have you tried 732 Social? The bartenders there are the real deal.

Jared Schubert opened Social and is now at Village Anchor, so both answers are correct. The staff at Social should make it the way he does, although I can't say for certain as I always just say 'make me what you are working on right now,' when I go there.

The Sazerac, when made according to tradition, is built in two glasses with shaved ice. It is probably one of the most labor intensive driinks out there short of the Ramos Gin Fizz (which tradition dictates 12 minutes of dry shaking the egg white for proper consistancy.)

I'm with Justin: it is very exciting what's happening with the cocktail culture in Louisville these days. We're really getting some recognition amongst the first-tier cities- not unlike our culinary scene.

732 it is then! Gracias!